The Decorative Arts
In the 19th century, Western artists became enthralled with Japonisme, their interpretation of the arts of Japan. See it in the work of the Impressionist painters. By 1900, a new style, Art Nouveau, sprang from this influence. Its sinuous natural shapes challenged the faceless juggernaut of industrialization. Art Nouveau permeated all sorts of art, from objects to architecture (to lingerie), and created a new way of thinking about design. World War I destroyed this peaceful moment, but Art Deco followed: opulent yet stripped down, geometric yet sexy. It became the backdrop to the Jazz Age.
For lingerie, these design transitions are represented by the kimono. James McNeill Whistler captured the mood by painting The Balcony (1865), a river scene of women in kimonos, as if in Kyoto. The scene was actually along London’s river Thames, where English models lounged in the shadow of factory smoke stacks.
Early 20th century French fashion designers Paul Poiret, Madeleine Vionnet, and Gabriel Chanel loosened things up further by creating linear corset-free garments that recalled not only kimonos, but also Middle Eastern robes and classic Greek chitons.
You will appreciate this interesting legacy as you slip into something from Christine Vancouver’s Fabergé Moss collection. The five pieces, all in chartreuse green, range from a Slip Dress and loose-cut Top in 19 momme silk charmeuse, to a Gown, Robe, and Pant in silk velvet decorated with an ice-blue Art Nouveau-inspired floral burnout pattern. Together the collection makes a nice cross-cultural travel wardrobe.
Gilda & Pearl’s Matinee designs speak to the influence of Art Deco. They are constructed of silk in a decadent shade of emerald green. Gold French Leavers lace adds attitude with a symmetrical scallop pattern that graces the hem of the Slip Dress and the sleeves of the short Robe. You might feel like Rita Hayworth in Gilda when you wear this combo. The design label’s moniker was inspired by the film’s title.
The world of decorative arts is well-represented by the choices Jane and Emily make for Jane’s Vanity. Study their selections for pleasure. Wear them well.