Channeling René Gruau

After World War II, international fashion was ready for a “New Look.” And received it, in the form of free and easy artwork by Italian commercial illustrator René Gruau. He set the mark for 20th century graphics, and his work continues to look fresh. Here at Jane’s Vanity, we are inspired by Gruau’s style, and imagine ways to incorporate it into our own compositions. 

Gruau’s light touch might have come from his birthplace, the Adriatic beach town of Rimini, Italy. Although he was soon whisked off to Paris, he returned to Rimini for childhood summers. From the beginning of his career, which began in his teens, his quick brushstrokes spoke of sea breezes and a carefree La Dolce Vita lifestyle. His faces are often obscured by a rakish straw hat, bedroom hair, or a backward glance. Colors are blocked for impact (and ease of printing). This sparkling look became the trademark of Christian Dior, among others. 

Gruau’s final resting place is the cemetery of Rimini, where his beautiful mosaic memorial sits near that of fellow son of Rimini, Federico Fellini and his family. Fellini and his lovely Giulietta Masina knew the cinematic possibilities of costume. If you are feeling a bit Fellini, emote in a dreamy Alexandra Silk Gown from Layalina, choice of redolent gold or aubergine purple.

Gruau made his name with a pared-back look that borrowed from traditional Japanese calligraphy and posters of Paris nightlife by Toulouse-Lautrec. We know he would love the nonchalant grace of Japanese lingerie house Aromatique’s sheer and sexy Tenjuku Cotton Robes with bare backs and high side slits. Choice of Pansy or Black.

A study of Gruau’s many images reveals a single evocative leopard’s paw. And brings to mind Gilda & Pearl’s Golden Hollywood Silk Pajamas. How might Gruau have illustrated this set? How would we? With a smiling red lip, our arms raised in a celebratory pose, and our jacket open to reveal our leopard grace. 

JV offers a big leopard hug to René Gruau.

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